HATCH COVERS
OPERATION & MAINTENANCE
Chain Pull Type Hatch Covers



1.rising track, 11.coaming,
2.panel side chains, 12.sheave,
3.falling track (behind coaming), 13.cross joint cleat,
4.balancing roller, 14.panel top plate,
5.eccentric wheel, 15.backhaul wire,
6.screw cleat, 16.wire to winch
7.wheel guide rail, 17.rubber gasket,
8.compression bar, 18.stowage bay,
2.panel side chains, 12.sheave,
3.falling track (behind coaming), 13.cross joint cleat,
4.balancing roller, 14.panel top plate,
5.eccentric wheel, 15.backhaul wire,
6.screw cleat, 16.wire to winch
7.wheel guide rail, 17.rubber gasket,
8.compression bar, 18.stowage bay,
9.coaming bar, coaming stiffener,
10.coaming hatch stay,
10.coaming hatch stay,
HATCH
COVER CLEATS

HATCH COVER CROSS JOINT WEDGES

Hydraulic Type Hatch Covers



HATCH COVER DRAIN VALVE

HATCH
COVER PACKINGS



Leakage
Problems
Most
leakage problems occur because of poor maintenance. Although robust, hatch
covers will leak if compression surfaces are not aligned correctly and if
gaskets are damaged or worn.
Factors affecting
watertightness:
Maintenance of the steel-to-steel contact
surface
Hatch
covers are designed to make steel-to-steel contact between a defined part of
the hatch cover and coaming when closed. This steel-to-steel contact determines
the amount of compression between the hatch gasket and compression bar. Contact
might be nothing more than the hatch skirt sitting on the horizontal coaming
plate, although some hatches are fitted with metal landing pads.
When the
horizontal coaming plate or hatch landing pad is worn, pressure on the hatch
gasket (rubber packing) increases. If this wear is greater than 4mm, increased pressure on the gasket will
cause damage. Landing pad repair is essential.

Maintenance of rubber packing – surface damage
Rubber packing
that is physically damaged, cut or chafed should be renewed immediately.
The minimum length of replaced packing should be 1 metre.
Maintenance of rubber packing – permanent set
Rubber packing that is permanently impressed to 75% of its
design compression should be completely replaced. The manufacturer will provide details of the design
compression. A rule of
thumb to estimate design compression is to use 30% of the packing’s thickness.
Permanently
impressed rubber packing indicates worn steel-to-steel contact surfaces.
Never replace
permanently impressed gaskets without checking the steel-to-steel contact points
for wear and doing repairs if they are worn.
Maintenance of rubber packing – aged gaskets
Ozone will age rubber. It becomes hard and loses elasticity. The entire
length of aged gasket should be replaced.
Maintenance of the double drainage system
Hatches are
designed to drain away water that has penetrated the gasket. Drainage channels
should always be cleaned before hatches are closed, and kept free from rust
scale and cargo debris. Damaged channels should be repaired immediately and
then painted to prevent corrosion. Drainage channels are located along
the cross-joint and on the coaming between the
compression bar and the inner coaming.

Maintenance
of non-return drain valves
Hatch coaming non-return drain valves are
an essential feature of the hatch double drainage system.
They let water that has come through the
hatch cover drain away. Damaged,
missing or defective non-return drain valves should be repaired or renewed.
Maintenance
of rubber seals on hold access doors, access hatches and ventilators
Water can enter the cargo hold through
access doors, hatches and ventilator covers.
Maintain them in
the same way as you would hatch covers.
Maintenance of hatch cleats
Cleats and wedges
hold the hatch in position with adequate gasket compression.
(Cleats are fitted
with a rubber washer or ‘grommet’ to aid compression). Compression of the
washer determines tension in the cleat. Washers are prone to both physical
damage and age hardening (weathering).
When damaged or
aged the washer loses its elasticity and should be replaced. Some operators
protect the washer and screw threads with a layer of grease or by application
of ‘denzo’ tape.
Maintenance of hatch wedges
Cross-joint wedges
require less maintenance than cleats and provided the wedge side spring is in
place the wedge will work efficiently. Check the springs regularly and replace
them if they are damaged or missing.
On a closed hatch,
the wedge should make contact with its strike plate on the opposite hatch
panel.
If there is a gap,
it is likely that the panel is distorted. The steel-to-steel contact may be
worn.
Repair and
alignment of the hatch panel is necessary. Never repair the strike plate by
building it up with weld metal above its original design height.
Maintenance of landing pads
The size and
dimensions of a landing pad are dependent on the size and weight of the hatch
cover.
Landing pads are
normally located adjacent to cleats. The pads are fitted to the top of the
coaming and to the side of the hatch panel. Landing pads should always be
repaired to their original design height.
Correct adjustment
of them can only be achieved during repair when the ship is out of service.
Some ships are provided with cassette type landing pads, these are easily
replaceable.

Leak Detection Tests
The two most
common leak detection tests are the water hose test and the ultrasonic test.
Ultrasonic testing is the preferred method because areas of inadequate hatch
sealing are accurately located.
Chalk testing
(another hatch test) gives only an indication of poor compression and potential
leaks. Chalk testing is not a leak detection test.
Light testing is
also effective but is potentially dangerous because personnel are in a closed,
dark hold looking for light infiltration between panels.
If hatches are
found to leak during a test, make the necessary repairs, then test again.
Water hose leak detection test
Water hose tests
are used to determine weathertightness of hatch covers. If correctly performed,
hose testing will show hatch joints that leak.
The general
procedure for hose testing is to apply a powerful jet of water from a 20-30mm
diameter hose fitted with a 12mm diameter nozzle held at a distance of 1-1.2
metres from a hatch joint, moving along the joint at a speed of 1 metre every 2
seconds.
The drawbacks of
hose testing are:
. The hold needs
to be empty;
. It cannot be
performed in sub-zero conditions;
. It requires the
deck scupper drains to be open (potentially causing pollution);
. The test cannot
pinpoint leaks on the cross-joint or side joint accurately;
. Two people are
needed to supervise the test.
Ultrasonic leak detection test
Ultrasonic leak
detection is a viable alternative to the hose test for testing hatch covers,
access doors and access hatches for water-tightness. This test should only be
carried out using class approved equipment and approved test procedures.
The test involves
placing (with hatches closed and secure), an electronic signal generator inside
the cargo hold. A sensor is then passed around the outside of all compression
joints. Readings taken by the sensor indicate points of low compression or
potential points of leakage.
Ultrasonic testing
overcomes the majority of limitations associated with hose testing and can be
carried out when holds are loaded.
The drawbacks of
ultrasonic leak detection tests are:
. The equipment
requires an experienced and specialist operator to interpret the readings;
. The equipment
requires regular calibration;
. The equipment is
not normally part of the ship’s equipment.
Chalk testing
When performing a
chalk test, the top edge of every compression bar is covered with chalk.
Hatches are then
fully closed and reopened. The rubber packing is examined for a chalk mark,
which should run continuously along the packings centre. Gaps in the chalk mark
indicate lack of compression.
Chalk testing
merely indicates if hatch panels are aligned and compression achieved. It will
not show whether compression is adequate and therefore it is not a test for
water-tightness.
Basic Advice
There are procedures which will
help to keep your ship’s hatch covers in good condition.
The following advice can be
considered best practice.
Always
• Rectify any steel-to-steel
fault before renewal of rubber packing. Renewal will not be effective if
steel-to-steel contact points are defective, and expensive rubber packing will
be ruined after only a few months of use;
• Replace missing or damaged
hatch gaskets (rubber packing) immediately. The minimum length of replaced
gasket should be 1 metre;
• Keep hatch coaming tops clean
and the double drainage channels free of obstructions. (Open hatch covers to
clean coaming tops and the double drainage channels after loading bulk cargo
through grain or cement ports);
• Keep cleats and wedges in
serviceable condition and correctly adjusted;
• Keep hauling wires and chains
adjusted correctly;
• Attach locking pins and
chains to open doors and hatches;
• Keep wheels, cleats, hinge
pins, haul wires, and chain tension equipment well greased;
• Test hydraulic oil regularly
for contamination and deterioration;
• Keep hydraulic systems oil-tight;
• Ensure the oil tank of the
hydraulic system is kept filled to the operating level and with the correct
oil;
• Clean up oil spills. If the
leak cannot be stopped immediately, construct a save-all to contain the oil and
empty it regularly;
• Engage tween deck hatch cover
cleats when the panels are closed;
• Give notice that maintenance
is being performed so that no one tries to operate the hatch;
• Remember that continuing and
regular maintenance of hatches is more effective and less expensive than
sporadic inspection and major repair.
Never
• Allow grooves to form in the coaming top,
especially where the hatch side or end panel rests when the hatch is closed;
• Apply petroleum-based grease or paint to
rubber packing;
• Remove the rubber ball from a non-return
drain valve;
• Use anything other than the recommended
hydraulic oil;
• Leave cleats unfastened when proceeding
to sea;
• Attempt to open or close any hatch that
has a load or cargo on it;
• Open hatch covers at sea unless
absolutely essential;
• Leave open covers unattended when at sea;
• Tighten down the
cleats so that the hatch cover is unable to move on the coaming top.
Common False Beliefs about Hatch Covers
• It
is the rubber seal that keeps the water out of the cargo.
The double
drainage system is as important in keeping water away from cargo.
Renewing a worn rubber seal is all that is needed to keep a hatch
watertight.
Worn rubber is usually the
result of worn steel-to-steel contact surfaces or a deformed structure.
Rubber renewal alone is futile
unless the steel-to-steel contact surface is repaired.
• Watertight is the same as weathertight.
From a hatch cover design
perspective, watertight means that water cannot get in or out;
weathertight (as required by
the 1966 Load Line Convention) means that water cannot pass through the seal.
• The hatch cover side plate when closed should rest on the
coaming top.
If the weight of a hatch panel
is sufficient to cause distortion of its side plate (hatch skirt), then landing
pads are fitted to the panel to transfer the weight evenly across coaming top.
• Hatch covers will always leak in heavy weather.
Hatch covers are designed to
withstand the rigours of the sea. Provided the cleats are correctly adjusted, hatch
gaskets are in good condition and the construction material sound, then hatch
covers should not leak, regardless of the weather. Common False Beliefs about Hatch
Cover
• Screwing cleats down hard will ensure watertightness.
No amount of tightening of
cleats beyond their correct position will improve hatch watertightness.
Hatch cover manufacturers usually
test for watertightness without engaging cleats. The weight of a hatch is
sufficient to create the required gasket compression.
The
use of hatch cover tape will ensure watertightness.
The use of sealant tape gives a false sense
of security. Hatch cover tape is a short-term temporary measure that can be
used to stop water from entering cross or side joints. However, the prolonged use
of tape increases corrosion in the cross-joint and side plate. In bad weather,
sealing tape can and does wash off.
•
Drain valves are not important; it does not matter if they are blocked.
Drain valves are an essential feature of
the double drainage system as they allow water that haspenetrated the hatch gasket (rubber packing) to drain away.
If the valve is blocked or closed, water will spill from the drainage channel
into the cargo hold.
When
carrying a cargo on top of a hatch it is not necessary to fasten cleats.
Cleats prevent excessive movement of the
hatch as a ship bends and flexes in a seaway.
They allow limited movement to ensure
correct contact between the hatch and its coaming, preventing hatch damage.
Cargo loaded on the hatch does not secure the hatch to its coaming.
• Tween
deck cleats are not essential because the tweendeck covers are not watertight.
Cleats on tween deck covers should always
be engaged when the covers are closed. This is because they stop tween deck
panels from jumping when a ship pitches, ensuring maintenance of tween deck strength.
When cargo is stowed on a tween deck panel, the panel must be secured to the
ship’s structure.
Procedures to open and close hatch covers
Prior to opening or closing a hatch, the
watch officer should be informed and the condition of the hauling wires or
chains checked; the hydraulic system should be topped up.
Never open or close more than one set of
hatch covers at a time.
Opening
procedures
• Check that the hatch cover panel stowage
area is clear of people, equipment and dunnage;
• Disengage all cleats;
• Attach towing or hauling wires; switch
the power on and ensure the controls are in neutral;
• Ensure that all personnel are clear of
the hatch and its tracking. Position crewmembers
to observe both sides of the hatch;
• Raise hatch covers to the roll position
by jacks or by raising the lifting system.
The panels need to clear the hatch guides;
• Check that towing chains are free and do
not foul tracks or the coaming top;
• Start to open the hatch, slowly at first,
then at normal operating speed until the
hatch is almost open and then reduce to
slow speed until fully open. Care must
be taken when opening hatch covers
especially when the speed of opening can
be only partially controlled;
• When fully open, secure the hatch with
the safety hook or pin before the power
is switched off. If applicable, remove the
towing and hauling wires;
• Install portable safety rails, if
supplied.
Closing
Procedures
• Check that the coaming top is clear of
cargo or debris;
• Check and clear drain channels and
entrances to the drain valves;
• Check that any damaged wheel tracks,
compression bars and landing pads have
been repaired;
• Ensure that the hold is clear of people
and that access hatches or entrance doors
are open. Check towing chains are free;
• Attach towing or hauling wires, switch
the power on and ensure the controls
are in neutral;
• Remove portable handrails;
• Release hatch locking pins or hooks;
• Avoid injuries by ensuring that all
personnel are clear of the hatch.
Position crewmembers to observe both sides
of the hatch;
• Check that towing chains are free and do
not foul tracks or the coaming top;
• Start to close the hatches slowly at
first with the speed of closure being gradually increased to the normal
operating speed. As the hatch reaches the closed position the speed should be
gradually reduced. Great care must be taken when closing hatch covers;
• Lower hatch covers into guide pockets
using jacks or lifting cylinders. Some hatches are lowered automatically;
• Attach cleats before removing the towing
wire or switching power off;
• Finally, check
no one is in the hold before closing hold access hatches or other hold entry
points.

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